gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 22, 2020 18:03:53 GMT
Question - what is the difference between Suzuki part numbers 09269-08003 and 09269-08001? They’re both spherical bearings as far as I can tell and dimensions are the same (8x17.5x11). The only difference I can see is 08001 is out of stock and costs twice as much. Are there any other differences?
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Post by Chuck78 on Jan 23, 2020 12:34:38 GMT
Is the cheaper, in-stock version listed as superseding the other? or are they listed for completely different purposes? Perhaps one has special seals and the other is unsealed? Or one has metal shields instead of seals? Sorry I did not have time to look them up
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Admin
Full Member
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Post by Admin on Jan 23, 2020 13:28:30 GMT
Is the cheaper, in-stock version listed as superseding the other? or are they listed for completely different purposes? Perhaps one has special seals and the other is unsealed? Or one has metal shields instead of seals? Sorry I did not have time to look them up - It's likely what you say Chuck. The other difference in price often indicates better quality or intended use, as the bearing for use in the engine will be made to a higher spec than a wheel bearing ;-) You want to use the right quality always.
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 26, 2020 2:55:31 GMT
The original bearing was part #2 on the cushion lever drawing - it looks like a spherical bearing. The old bearing was so chewed up I really couldn't tell how it was made. In fact all of the suspension bearings were toast. The bearing I was looking at is made for the steering dampers on the newer Suzuki street bikes. Again, they look like spherical bearings. The difference is that they are a little thicker than the stock bearing. I ordered one just to take a look to see if it will work. They are readily available, half the price of stock. If it doesn't work my search will continue! Actually, the challenge of finding the parts the make these old bikes run like new is half the fun (for me anyway).
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 26, 2020 3:03:00 GMT
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 26, 2020 3:13:34 GMT
Some more parts - plastics (the new fenders are at my shop), brake shoes, and a bag of small parts.
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 28, 2020 0:03:49 GMT
Well, the test bearing I ordered has arrived, plus the oem bearings that were on back order shipped today. I’ll compare and post some pics of the differences when the oem bearings get here.
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Post by drumnagorrach on Jan 29, 2020 15:05:56 GMT
Just seen your post , I line reamed the holes that take the spherical bearings out to the nearest commercially available bearing ,can't remember if it was GSXW-MO8 or GE10FW ,one is 10 mm I/d the other 8mm . I turned down the main pivot spindle to take LR15x18x12.5 ina inner bearing sleeves then I could fit NK18/20 ina needle roller bearings . that was six months ago and all seems fine .
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Post by Chuck78 on Jan 30, 2020 0:37:16 GMT
So did you do this machining work to these parts because the OEM stuff is far too expensive? Or is some of it no longer available whatsoever, and non-standard sizes?
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 31, 2020 0:13:02 GMT
The top bearing in the photos is the stock bearing, the bottom is the steering stabilizer bearing. The dimensions appear to be the same (using a calibrated eyeball) with the exception of the flat area around the inner part seen in the top photo (stock seems a bit wider). The difference in materials on the outer part is obvious. The inner part seems to be made of the same materials. The action/smoothness feel the same. The stock bearing costs $70+ each, the steering stabilizer bearing was $16. There must be a LOT more reliability built into the stock bearing to justify the price difference. Bottom line - I will stick with the original.
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Jan 31, 2020 0:39:27 GMT
Well, on my computer the pics are top and bottom, on my phone left and right. The gold colored bearing is the stock bearing, the black bearing is the steering stabilizer bearing.
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Feb 15, 2020 20:59:28 GMT
I just sent an email to Drew Smith I see how much a shock rebuild will be. Mine is FUBAR. Are there any bolt in replacements available? I would prefer new over rebuilt. I know the purists are cringing but if I can get a new with the same performance I would rather go that route (as long as I don’t have to take a 2nd mortgage out on the house)...
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Post by drumnagorrach on Feb 16, 2020 14:41:42 GMT
So did you do this machining work to these parts because the OEM stuff is far too expensive? Or is some of it no longer available whatsoever, and non-standard sizes? Mostly because of price ,but also a working life as a maintenance engineer on some very old machinery ,has given me the mindset to use easily available parts whenever possible .
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Post by Chuck78 on Feb 28, 2020 18:20:45 GMT
About the shock, is the inside of the aluminum main cylinder on yours just trashed? If it's just evenly worn, a hard anodizing might fix it. Drew Smith will probably charge around $300 to fully refurbish your shock if the main body is salvageable. Aftermarket replacements are going to be a slight to moderate upgrade (more durable steel cylinder, and the higher price models will have adjustable damping on various levels), but will cost you at least $600, probably more like $700 up to or over $1,000. Used shocks are available as rebuildable cores,b if the shock has not been dismantled and thoroughly inspected by a competent and honest person, it is a gamble to buy one unless the price is very cheap. 2 years of RM 125 shock also are the same length, diameter, and mounting configuration. The RM250 is larger diameter and ever so slightly shorter if I recall correctly.
Search the technical links areas 4 lux OneDrive file repository, and look for the Works Performance shock specification and price list from several years ago, this will at least give you the lengths and compatible model years between PE and RM full floater models.
twin shocks are cheaper and generally all steel body, so they don't generally have this problem, so any rebuildable twinshock will be cheaper to salvage unless it needs new shafts. The full floater mono shocks are definitely superior in performance, but the aluminum cylinder is a big misstep that Suzuki made and many other manufacturers when monoshocks were just hitting the markets.
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gutm
Junior Member
Posts: 50
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Post by gutm on Mar 3, 2020 14:11:56 GMT
Good news from my end. I found a 1982 PE175 on Craigslist with all the parts I need. It’s a complete bike with the exception of the kickstand. The gas tanks only needs to be cleaned - original paint and decals. The shock appears to be in good condition, the lights/odometer is there, all the brackets and guards are there. The only issue is the motor sucked in some grit. The motor on my original bike is good. The best part is I only paid $225 for the parts bike.
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