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Post by Chuck78 on Nov 18, 2019 3:16:36 GMT
Has anyone ever found an aluminum kickstart lever to retrofit onto our PE's with the heavy steel kickers?
Finding something with the same spline count would be nice, but perhaps the easier option rather than researching hundreds of complete kickers until finding a matching spline, would be to use the original steel knuckle, and modify it and/or an aluminum kick lever arm to fit the PE arm.
When I got my bike, the kicker lever was so incredibly worn out, both sloppy on the pivot, and very well smashed and worn on the stops, so that the top foot portion of the lever had worn a large recess into my cylinder head fins! I tracked down a pricey stocker in like new condition, but they are hefty, and I'm trying to drop a few pounds of weight off of this bike to make it a little easier to handle, and easier to pick up when dropped.
Thanks,
Chuck
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Admin
Full Member
Posts: 146
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Post by Admin on Nov 18, 2019 3:35:43 GMT
Good luck with your search Chuck, but I would suggest one place not to emphasize saving weight would be the kick starter.
They do get worn and sloppy. Your best bet is to make it a good first or second kick starter and perhaps give up a little elsewhere.
"My 2 cents"
Chuck b.
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Post by ESR80PE on Nov 22, 2019 10:06:53 GMT
I am sure there is an upgrade. i have heard of others doing it before. I think a KDX/KX one fits from memory but thats all the details i know.
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Post by Chuck78 on Nov 25, 2019 0:28:50 GMT
I am sure there is an upgrade. i have heard of others doing it before. I think a KDX/KX one fits from memory but thats all the details i know. The newer 1988 or 1989+ KX/KDX is definitely a different spline (finer spline count), as I upgraded my newer KDX's sloppy hockey stick kicker to a shorter KX125 alloy lever (88-91?) with a mid 90's KX250 knuckle.
I'll look into the early/mid-'80's KX/KDX though! And RM's of the period, should be the most likely.
All the modern kickers are aluminum, so I see no harm in swapping one of those on. I wouldn't consider that a compromise at all. My stocker was SHOT, wore into the cylinder/head fins it was so sloppy when I got it. I have a pristine stock kicker from eBay, but always looking to "upgrade" everything I have from stock to improve performance and save weight.
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Post by Chuck78 on Dec 16, 2019 21:12:08 GMT
So my new-to-me 83 PE175D came to me with allegedly an RM125 kickstarter, which is aluminum... The proper clocking would have it rubbing the head fins, so it is 1 spline back, where it touches the frame. Heating it up and bending very slightly, + just a slight bit of filing on the top corner, may solve the at-rest position issue. I'm not sure if the splined knuckle is still the PE175 steel piece or not, but it's out in the shed and it snowed a bunch last night, and the garage and basement shops are clogged up with projects at present, so it'll be a minute before I really get to examine it in-depth... engine teardown, crank bearing inspection, and reassembly for deck height mockup is on the short list of things to do for it, as well as collect parts as I find deals or rarities...
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Post by Chuck78 on Dec 19, 2019 5:49:52 GMT
Well, just browsing photos, it appears that 1984-2006 RM250's use the same size kicker shaft splines as the PE's, & are alumimum! There are many variations of the lever shapes, so not all will be a good fit.
The 84-87 RM125 are also a good candidate, but from experience, will need heat up and bent slightly, or else a little filing on the backside at the bend by the footpeg portion. I prefer the shorter levers that sit closer to the bike, requiring s slightly swifter kick, as it gets the engine spinning faster and is easier in an awkward woods position such as hillsides, off camber, ruts, rocks etc.
Versus the giant hockey stick style that hang way out, required much more body movement to complete a kick stroke, & wear out the stops on the kicker arm faster due to the extra leverage in both length and sideways distance offset from the bend of the kicker...
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Post by Chuck78 on Dec 19, 2019 5:51:51 GMT
I also thought that perhaps with that splined knuckle, you could fit RM125 kick levers like I have done on my KDX... they look the same, same style of sealed pivot with screw holding the spring loaded ball bearing/detent in the retaining groove. I'll have to get one of the 84+ RM alloy kickers & test fit my KDX's 1990's KX125 kicker lever arm on it. (FYI the KDX swap requires a KX125 lever on a KX250 splined knuckle)
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Post by Chuck78 on Apr 1, 2020 0:31:20 GMT
I just pulled the trigger on this RM125 kickstart lever to retrofit it onto my 83 PE175 resto-mod, or possibly my 77 PE250 as well if it will fit both.
The listing said 86-88, but other listings on evilBay state 84-87. I haven't looked into the differences, but I think I can make this work on the PE175, but it may take a slight bit of heating and bending worst case scenario. Suzuki Part number: 26300-36EV0
This item will fit the following models:
1986 RM125 - KICK STARTER
1987 RM125 - KICK STARTER
1988 RM125 - KICK STARTER
I did the same thing on my 99 KDX220, got rid of the giant awkward "hockey stick" kicker in favor of an improved design KX250 knuckle with the same splines, that also fits a shorter KX125 kick lever.
The difference was AWESOME. especially in awkward positions kicking it on a hill after you spilled, or with really wet mud caked boots.
You have to kick it a slight bit harder/faster, but it seems easier as your leg doesn't have to move around front to back much, and it's closer to the bike, so it's all more direct vertical motion and hence you slip off a lot less, and your body center of gravity does not have to move as drastically, and you get it started faster.
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