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Post by rocmoc on Oct 16, 2020 14:27:14 GMT
This is going to be a multi post thread of what I did to FIX my PE175's failed suspension. This process can be used on other years & models.
Post #1 is Resources, Parts & Tools.
RESOURCES -
For REAR SHOCK lengths Cyclecycle.info website,
Also used factory Spec info. found on internet.
For FORKS,
Ohio Cafe Racers website,
Backup / x-check
PARTS & TOOLS -
What I chose as there are other options for the forks, found nothing else as easy for the rear shock (Suzuki Forks hoping it would allow me to reuse my stock drum brake & front wheel),
1986 Kawasaki KDX200 Rear Shock (Same shock as earlier but with Clicker adjustment) (Ebay purchase)
1993 Suzuki DR350 Triple Clamp, 43mm Forks (dirt model), Axle Bolt (don't need spacer) (1990-1997 setup will work) (Ebay purchase)
15/16" drill bit (Amazon)
Hydraulic press (used friends) Drill Press (already had in my shop)
Install and Pics to follow.
rocmoc n AZ
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 16, 2020 22:14:28 GMT
Post #2 is install of KDX Rear Shock This is the easier install, To install the KDX Shock you have to widen the slots to allow the shock female bolt hole mounts to fit in the the Suzuki slots. The upper requires the removal of the upper link (at least for me as I did not want to accidentally hit any surrounding components with the right angle grinder). My link was steel with plenty of material available to be lightly ground away allowing the shock to slip into the space. One side had a little more material than the other so I even them up at this time. I did smooth the surface of the bolt hole on the shock as mine had a few nicks. Be very careful as it aluminum. When it slides in tight you are there. I did grease the sides when I put it back together, even used the original bolt & nut. The lower is even easier. With the shock removed, simply take a bar (I have a bar with a S-bend for reaching in areas) and gently tapped with a 3 lb hammer alternating from side to side until the female (bolt hole) part of the shock fit in. Position the line to the remote reservoir in the same fashion as the original shock, towards the rear. The bolt hole in the shock is a bit bigger. You can drill the holes on the bike bigger or in my case I chose to place a sliver of steel the size of a cotter key on the bottom of the hole (the unloaded position) filling the space between the bolt and steel sleeve in the shock bolt hole. Under load the bolt is in direct contact with the steel sleeve of the shock. Install with a touch of grease on everything and tighten up using the original bolt & nut. Run remote reservoir out the same way as original but it will not reach as far. Mount with a piece of rubber under reservoir to protect the surfaces and water hoses clamps. One clicker adjustment will be at the top and requires seat removal and the other clicker is down on the bottom. I chose to leave settings alone and try it out first. Pre-load and clickers were correct for my weight and riding style. It is a matter of luck it you get a shock that doesn't require seals as no one on Ebay will guaranty the seals on used shocks & forks (I was LUCKY!). My Rear shock cost $126.50 out of Utah. Total cost for upgrade / fix. I am assuming existing knowledge of how to R&R shock and only addressing the modifications required.
I will be adding pics after at the end.
rocmoc n AZ
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 17, 2020 23:24:06 GMT
Post #3 is install of DR350 Forks,
This was a little more difficult. First, why I chose the DR350 43mm forks & Triple Clamp. Simply because I had the greatest chance of reusing more of the PE175 components. I wanted to still have my front drum brake & wheel keeping the stock look of the PE. AND I have never had a problem or issue with drum brakes. I did have disc on my CRF450r & have them both on my XT225 so I know how both feel and work. I went on Ebay and purchased the Triple Clamp and Forks from a dirt version 1993 DR350 (supposedly better than the S model). You have to PRESS OUT the DR350 Stem bolt from the lower triple clamp, PRESS OUT the PE175 Stem bolt from the lower triple clamp (lower bearing is PRESSED out/off at the same time on both) and PRESS "IN" the PE Stem bolt into the DR350 lower Triple Clamp (with the lower bearing at the same time). There are videos of this on Utube. The bearings have the same specs but looked a little different so I chose to use the PE bearing set. The DR lower triple clamp will now fit the PE frame neck. The Stem bolt of the DR is about 3/4" short causing this additional work. I reused the PE Stem Nut & upper washer seal to install the lower triple clamp and tighten down AFTER a little more work. Again Utube videos on how much to tighten. I used the PE Stem Nut first to tighten and the DR stem nut to double nut the PE stem nut secure to the lower triple clamp (Pic will follow)(and there is about 1/4" of space to fill as the upper triple clamp of the DR is not as thick as the PE). But before you can mount the upper triple clamp you have to enlarge the center hole. After measuring everything, a 15/16" drill bit was the way to go. Be very careful as again you are working with Aluminum. Threw the drill bit in my drill press, secured the triple clamp and DRILLED baby drill. Perfect! Now it is ready to bolt on. Install the upper DR triple clamp and reuse the top stem/triple clamp bolt from the PE (the very first bolt you had to remove when taking off the PE triple clamps)(Pic will follow)and the top stem Washer bolt from the DR (there is also a nut but you will not use it). The washer hole will have to be enlarged the smallest amount. I used a circular drill file in my electric hand drill with the washer in a bench vise. Throw it together (I used red locite and torque to specs after wheel is installed). The DR forks now will go on the same as the PE forks. Lightly tighten pinch bolts on the triple clamps until you finish the wheel install which will be in the next post. DR350 Forks and Triple Clamp was purchased on Ebay for $163.33 including shipping & taxes out of Wisconsin. And again I was LUCKY, Seals work for now (no leaks). Amazon had the 15/16" drill for $21.31 with tax & shipping. Friend had the hydraulic press in his shop and paid him $50 to do the stem work after hours(lol). More to follow!
rocmoc n AZ
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 18, 2020 15:55:37 GMT
Post #4 is the install of the Front Wheel, This is pretty easy if you have a Welder and know how to Weld. First I had to go back to Ebay as the axle bolt from the PE will not work. I bought a DR350 axle bolt and spacer (used the PE spacer). Turned out you do not need the spacer, save the money. With the DR axle bolt, the wheel is a normal mount for a DR. Here is the site I used to download the service manual for DR350 from 1990-1999 with all the models and it is FREE. Make sure you use the correct section for your forks as the torque specs are different and adjustments procedures. www.manualslib.com/manual/1257181/Suzuki-Dr350.html The tough part is making the plate with the metal tab to secure the drum in place when the front brake is applied. I took 14GA flat plate stock and fashioned it into a mount plate with two hole that attach to the mounting tabs for the disc caliper on the lower left fork. Make sure you don't let your bolts protrude into the wheel. I found a large nut that fit perfectly in the slot on the drum. Took a 10 lb sledge hammer and flatten the nut. Be very careful because if you miss and hit just the edge of the nut, it will be come a projectile. Bolt the plate in place, rotate the drum to the correct location, set the flatten nut in the space between the plate & drum slot and mark location. Tack weld nut, check for fit and if OK (I missed the first time) weld solid. Grind the plate in the pattern you wish (made my circular & size to match the drum so you don't notice it), test and if good paint semi-gloss black. Mount in place and then use the procedure from the DR service manual to align forks and torque everything (again make sure you are using the section for your year & model). Route all cable as you wish, can be a pain. SPECIAL NOTICE, I forgot to say I reused my fork gators / rubber fork tube covers from my PE. Had to use black plastic tie at the top. I rode twice, 5 miles & 35 miles, and torqued everything again. My final setup for the forks is 1/2 turn of pre-load (big slotted screw on top), 9 clicks of damping(a little soft) (under the rubber cap on the bottom of the forks)and 10 lbs of air pressure in tires. Fork tubes are flush with the top of the upper triple clamp. This is my setup for 150 lbs with riding gear and my riding style. My forks came with 3 turns of pre-load as the DR is more front heavy and normally heavier riders, was too harsh for me. Be careful with the pinch bolts on the axle bolt, don't over torque. Photos will follow showing my drum plate and everything else. Axle bolt came from Ebay for $12.62 including tax from Utah. Beware not axle bolts work, I believe the bolt has to be 1990-1997. Lots of photos to follow. I did end up with an extra complete DR350 43mm Triple Clamp less forks that I would sale for $49 plus shipping (exactly what I paid). rocmoc n AZ
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Admin
Full Member
Posts: 146
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Post by Admin on Oct 19, 2020 1:33:22 GMT
Thank you for the details!
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 19, 2020 14:36:18 GMT
I am providing Photos of the finished product only. Also to give some credibility to what I did, I am a retired Engineer with College Degrees in several areas of Engineering and Experience.
First Photo Post is of the rear shock (photos crop to meet site limit),
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 19, 2020 14:38:19 GMT
Second Photo post is of the Upper Triple Clamp Stem BoltS and NutS,
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 19, 2020 14:41:01 GMT
Third Photo post is of the Front Brake Drum,
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 19, 2020 14:42:12 GMT
DONE, no more to FOLLOW!
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mazz
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by mazz on Oct 22, 2020 2:52:56 GMT
You wouldn't happen to have a pic of your rear shock before the install? I've had this shock that came on my PE engined 1985 RM125F that was incorrect for the bike 10+ years ago and always thought it might be 80's KX125/250. Laying them side by side to my PE175D shock, the eye to eye lengths look the same. Bottom mount fits in no problems, top mount like yours - cushion arm needs trimming to fit. Cheers.
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Post by rocmoc on Oct 23, 2020 2:12:15 GMT
Not the same as the 1986 KDX200. The clicker at the top of mine is a twist knob on the outside. The shock I used was only made the one year, 1986. Previous years was the same but without clicker adjustments. In 1987 changed the reservoir to being mounted on the shock. Sorry but I did not take a pic but if I should I will load it.
rocmoc n AZ
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mazz
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by mazz on Oct 23, 2020 13:12:45 GMT
Thanks rocmoc. Bit of a mystery to me then. It does have a steel body, which is good. I might end up using it, but my reservoir hose fittings+hose will need to be replaced as it has a straight banjo on the bottom (which is fine) but the res side is a curved 45deg and if i route it like yours, there is too much twist in the hose. I might as well get a new hose made up.
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Post by Chuck78 on Nov 11, 2020 18:41:22 GMT
Thanks for posting this info up. Much appreciated. The Full Floater PE175's are awesome bikes, but a little updating is definitely a good thing! I might commit sacrilege and swap on a disc brake cartridge front end from a DR-Z250 or Honda XR, but undecided. The bike has zero brakes right now, and my buddy's worn out '84 PE175 drums that I rode Monday don't stop worth a darn especially after all the mud we sunk our bikes into this last ride at Perry State Forest in Appalachian Southeastern Ohio's hills...
I'm looking for a used period shock of the same specs but with damping adjustment, looks like a few years of RM125 and KDX will be the goal there.
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Post by rocmoc on Dec 9, 2020 2:17:31 GMT
I went thu year by year and brands. The RM is too long. The only thing I found that would work is the KDX200. The 1986 was the first and only year that had clicker adjustment. Earlier years adjusted the same as the PE. Newer years of the KDX (1987-20??) went to the shock mounted reservoir. I looked of months.
Sorry about the late response but came down with Shingles (get the new vaccine, I did take the old) and slow me up a bit.
rocmoc n AZ
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Post by rocmoc on Jun 18, 2021 2:12:38 GMT
Time for an UPDATE! Have been happy with the upgrade to the DR350 forks. BUT, they need to be rebuilt. Started to do them myself but I already have too many projects and I want them to be the best they can be. I already knew the forks were over-sprung for my personal weight and of course the PE is about 50+lbs lighter than the DR. We have a local suspension guy that use to be work for a SuperCross team. He now has the forks and will tailor them to my weight and skill level. Will give an update when I reinstall and ride.
rocmoc n AZ
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