maxp
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Posts: 13
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Post by maxp on Apr 22, 2020 18:00:33 GMT
Hi All
What is the correct cable route for the clutch cable on the 1980/81 PE250 clutch cable, same for the PE400?
Thanks
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Admin
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Post by Admin on Apr 23, 2020 0:01:20 GMT
Hi All What is the correct cable route for the clutch cable on the 1980/81 PE250 clutch cable, same for the PE400? Thanks Go to Luke's site and download the User Manual for your PE. Page 83, I think, has a diagram of the correct routing. chuck b.
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maxp
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Post by maxp on Apr 23, 2020 4:16:44 GMT
Thanks Chuck.
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maxp
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by maxp on Apr 23, 2020 4:22:41 GMT
Just as I thought, that is the route I use, but it causes the cable to make for very difficult clutch pulling on the lever.
If you route it around the outside of the exhaust - I know not possible - but the clutch works so much easier.
Any suggestions?
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Post by ESR80PE on Apr 23, 2020 12:54:24 GMT
Just moved this thread to the correct location.
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Admin
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Post by Admin on Apr 23, 2020 14:01:35 GMT
Just as I thought, that is the route I use, but it causes the cable to make for very difficult clutch pulling on the lever. If you route it around the outside of the exhaust - I know not possible - but the clutch works so much easier. Any suggestions? Just common sense ones. When off the motorcycle, the inner cable should move freely without any binding. No kinks. I use Tri-Flow on my cables and every so often really give a good flush to remove all of the dirt from inside. It doesn't get sticky and moves as easily in cold weather. You might just need a new cable. All the cable bends should be gradual and don't make the tie wraps overly snug, that cable isn't going to fall off the bike ;-) And I also prefer the old style "straight" levers over the dog-leg ones both for comfort and I felt it makes for an easier feel but I'm being a hypocrite and using some old style Magura Levers on my Suzukis currently for the reasons described in that post. And keep the clutch lever's pivot loose and well lubricated. As mentioned, some of us have a bigger problem with incomplete clutch disengagement and are willing to accept a little difficulty with the pull. This modification was suggested to me by Fabrice and is one cure. By shortening the lever's actuation point, you get more movement and better release. I also found the same could be achieved by using my old Magura levers, which are made for bigger hands and work better for the clutch ;-) The latest levers I find by most manufacturers don't allow for enough movement. IMO. And I find the cheap eBay levers you find cheap break if you sneeze. Again, IMO. ;-) - So, if you use longer more comfortable levers, that could help, and also if you could lengthen the lower clutch arm slightly that would help if it still allowed for clutch disengagement. Of course this all assume the clutch is in otherwise good condition, correct clutch springs, basket not notched, plates not warped or bent etc. Gear oil might affect the smoothness of clutch engagement but I don't think it will have any effect on how hard it is to pull other than maybe in very cold weather. - If you want to try a different routing, you may need to make your own cables (I do) if it needed to be longer or get a custom cable made by Motion Pro if possible. Let us know if you find a solution ;-)
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maxp
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Post by maxp on Sept 26, 2020 7:25:43 GMT
Thanks Admin - all good tips here!
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